You may recall the black and white gingham wrap blouse that was determined not to be.  And how disappointing the fabric was with all its yellow flaws.

Not to be completely defeated I decided to use it to make a wearable muslin of my self drafted bodice block.  I also finished the black twill trousers that have been cut out since I can’t remember when.

DSCF3058_0100_edited-1Let’s start with the top.  The overall fit is ok, and I’m thrilled that the armholes don’t gape.  However I do need to take the front neckline in a little bit.  I’m going to pinch out a couple of darts and transfer these to the block.

Also I fiddled with the bust point and should have left well alone.  The darts are too high; had I not made an adjustment they’d have been in the right place.

I’m also thinking that I need to add waist darts to add a little shaping.  It looks far too ‘blocky’ at the moment.

But worn under a cardigan, as I did yesterday, it looks ok and was probably the best use of the wretched fabric.  I’m a step closer to having a perfect bodice block as a start point for designing my own tops.

Next the trousers.  I’d bought the cotton twill in frustration at not being able to find the fabric I really wanted, and am not at all happy with the choice.  Isn’t it always the case.  But making these trousers is a good use for this fabric, and I’m making strides (‘scuse the pun) towards a TNT trouser pattern.

The basis of these trousers is a hybrid between Vogue V8483 and Hot Patterns Deco Vibe Cigarette Pants.

First the good:

  • They are super comfortable
  • They look better than any RTW trousers I’ve ever purchased

Now the not so good:

  • There is still some whiskering about the front crotch area that needs attention
  • The are a little short in the rise (resolved by elasticating the back waist)
  • The waist yoke sits most peculiarly.

The action plan:

  • I’m going to redraft the pattern to reshape the front crotch to remove the whiskering (I’ll be referring to Palmer Pletsch to sort this out)
  • I’m going to add the waist yoke back onto the main trouser pieces and resolve the issue of the short rise.

At this point I’ll have a basic trouser block that I can use to draft trousers that fit.

That’s the plan.  So hopefully the next pair of trousers I make should be pretty much a perfect fit.  Then I can just concentrate on construction techniques.

That said, there’ll be little sewing going on over the next couple of weeks.  I’m shattered so taking it a little easier at the insistence of the Rest and Recuperation Mafia.  Also we get the keys for Ma’s flat on Wednesday and will be cracking on with the decorating and cleaning in anticipation of her relocation.  The good news is we have more time in which to do it than originally planned.

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